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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • Con man? CEO? Hedge fund manager?

    But seriously, generally anything having an exponential return in this world is pretty unusual and generally not guaranteed if it’s a desirable outcome.

    Particularly in a capitalist economy, the business only has to pay you just enough to not leave for a competitor, they don’t need to pay you the true value of your ability unless you’re basically the only person on the planet with the necessary skills.

    On the flip side, in booming industries that require specific skills such as tech, you can generally get a pretty linear progression for a while before it plateaus in a good number of organisations.


  • It’s called Microsoft 365 now

    Office 365 was when it was just a business productivity suite

    They renamed it when they pivoted it to a general subscription and started adding things like clipchamp.

    I mentioned in another comment though that I agree it would be silly to mess with the professional skus, but the home & family ones would make perfect sense to offer as an option at the very least (just as they’re offering 365 without copilot for the time being).

    I’m also not saying get rid of the independent subscriptions for Xbox, that would also be silly.

    Just that a merged one would make a lot of sense for the people out there paying for both (which I reckon is a good number in the family subscription category at least)






  • Yeah, 9v at the very least, but 15V would be a useful option too.

    I’m also just now realising USB-PD doesn’t spec for 12V which feels like an odd omission

    Edit:

    From the article:

    Sure, it wouldn’t be much harder to add support the other voltages offered by USB-C Power Delivery, but how often have you really needed 20 volts on a breadboard? Why add extra components and complication for a feature most people would never use?

    My friend, you write for hackaday, this is a weird take


  • Tbf, these are slightly different things, the one in the OP hooks up to the standard power “rails” on a breadboard. You don’t need to buy a special one with markings specific to a pi or Arduino (or just learn the pin outs). OP’s also has the benefit of not taking up half a breadboard like your example.

    Not saying more similar things don’t exist, but for the example you’ve given I think there’s significant enough differences for them to have distinct use cases.

    Agree with what another comment said though in that it would be good to select for higher voltage than 5V.